Morocco, Skoura, Kasbah Ait Ben Moro

I already confessed that I like the tales of 1001 nights; to be honest I think I was an Arabic princess in my former life : ). So to sleep in a late 18-century Kasbah in an oasis, with amazing mountain views, surrounded by palmtrees was a fantastic experience.

Kasbah Ait Ben Moro is definitively on my list of Moroccan favorites. My husband and I stayed here a few years ago when making a roundtrip in Morocco (Marrakech - Essaouira - Skoura - Erfoud - Fez - Meknez). Loved this place (that is actually a sand castle made out of mud and straw) because its beauty and simplicity.

 http://www.aitbenmoro.com/

A lot of the restored Kasbahs hotels in Morocco would be better off in Disneyland than in the pure and rough Moroccan mountain and desert scenery. Kasbah Ben Moro is one of the few authentic places that still has character. As a consequence it is basic, and that for me is beautiful. I loved the fact that there was only electricity untill 11pm, so after a (great!) dinner we had to go back to our room with a lighted candle in our hand walking through hallways and stairs all lighted in fantastic patterns by lanterns. That's why you go to a country like Morocco, isn't it?

So do not expect glamour and nightlife, but enjoy the romance that nature brings. Two absolute musts when out there: 1) rent a mountainbike (owner can arrange this) and tour around in the Palmeraie and 2) visit Kasbah Ait Benhaddou, a UNESCO world heritage site, and decor of many many movies like Lawrence of Arabia and Gladiator http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A%C3%AFt_Benhaddou. Quite funny when you walk through the Kasbah and all of its inhabitants proudly tell you 'did you know I played a part in that that and that famous movie?'.  

I found Ben Moro in a great hotel guide 'HIP hotels budget', that is just exactly my cup of tea. As the author writes in his introduction 'all the ingredients that make a HIP Hotel - fantasy, orginality, style, location- are available at less than astronomical rates, if you only know where to look'... Its an oldy (published in 2001), but you can always doublecheck the places on tripadvisor, I know for sure that most of the listed places still get raving raviews  http://www.amazon.com/Hip-Hotels-Budget-Herbert-Ypma/dp/0500283028

Morocco, Marrakesh (Palmeraie), Dar Zemora

What do you want after being overwhelmed by the sounds and smells of Marrakech's Medina, after exploring the nightlife and after hiking in the mountains?

Simple. We just wanted to relax at a swimming pool with comfortable deck chairs.

And...we discovered the perfect place to do so. Dar Zemora, a country house style boutique hotel in the Palmeraie, just outside Marrakech. Dar Zemora has not only a nice swimmingpool with comfi deck chairs it has much more... beautifully decorated rooms (my favorite: the open air sittingroom with an explosion of pink and turquoise), spacious gardens, a hammam and a good cook!

http://www.darzemora.com/

Dar Zemora is such a great place and unfortunately that means it has a price tag... But there is one important thing I learned when organizing this trip. Pls pay attention, because this is real valuable advise:
1) don't bargain only at the souk! 
2) and be shameless!

I should not personally take credit for this insight. I organized this trip with a friend. We were the perfect team. I spotted the places and she asked without any sign of embarrassment for discounts (on the rooms, on the dinner), free extra beds in the room, a free transfer to the airport! And she succeeded. All is off course dependant on the time of the year and whether they have a lot of bookings. But it's definitively worth to try.

Hear hear for Jiske!

Morocco, High Atlas, Imlil, Kasbah du Toubkal

Some places do not need sophisticated design or stylish decoration, it's just the authentic character, the friendly smiles of the staff and an awesome location...

Ecolodge and Berber hospitality centre Kasbah du Toubkal, located at 1800m in the High Atlas, is such a place. Basic luxury I would call it. Its the total experience that makes it unique, from the arrival by feet or donkey to the hammam that awaits you after a challenging hike in the mountains. 

 http://www.kasbahdutoubkal.com/

Located just 60km away from Marrakech at the foot of Jbel Toubkal, the highest peak in North Africa, Kasbah du Toubkal is an ideal base for trekkings. Options range from a Toubkal ascent for diehards to strolls and daytreks.

Berber hospitality centre means that the Kasbah is not a hotel in the traditional sense; it's an extension of the hospitality of the Berbers who run it. That is what makes it unique, but expectations should also be managed, as the owners write on their website: "What many guests enjoy and find unique is the feeling of equality and community at the Kasbah. However, it is important to realise that it is not necessarily to everyone. Its unique broad-based approach to welcoming guests may not suit those that expect the place to be perfectly 'dressed' all the time. People expecting an approach more typical of a 4 or 5 star hotel should think carefully before visiting." 

If you asked me, either as place to stay during a hiking expedition or as daytrip to have lunch or tea, Kasbah du Toubkal should not be missed.

Morocco, Marrakech (Medina), Dar Chelita

Marrakech is a magical place where the best of different worlds come together. It's the mysterious romance of 1001 nights in a boho laid back atmosphere filled with culture, art, aesthetics and cosmopolitan flair. I can best describe it as a sensory roller coaster along spices, roasted lamb, rosewater, Arabic sounds, French pastry, donkeys moving through the small Medina alleys, renewed skin after a revitalizing hammam ritual, pinkish red against the backdrop of snow capped High Atlas peaks, fresh cobalt blue of Jardin Majorelle, lanterns scattering beautiful patterns of light... I can go on forever! I just really love Marrakech!


It was love at first sight years ago when I first visited Marrakech during a roundtrip in Morocco with my husband. And I recently came back with a group of 8 friends. What a great reunion, Marrakech and me! And honestly... although perfect for a romantic tete-a-tete... it's even better when you can shop for ever with your friends in the souk and the ville nouvelle, party till the morning in bo-zin or pacha, have all the beauty treatments you want in the hammam, and chill and chat at the roof terrace of the riad in the sun with croissants and mint tea and wine and olives...

The best Marrakech experience is to stay in a riad (old family palace) in the Medina (the old town). It's a great experience to walk through the medieval Medina with its labyrinth of small dark alleys, find the door of your riad and then enter and feel like a princess. Most of these riads are beautifully restored, styled and decorated with European touch and often featured in interior magazines.

http://www.thevillabook.com/country/Morocco/region/Marrakech/villa/DAR_CHELITA/


We found Dar Chelita on the internet and immediately fell for the style, the location and the fact that we could rent the whole riad. Funfact: Jamie Oliver stayed here as well. Dar Chelita has a refreshing simplicity as the UK based owner calls it, with a mixture of traditional and contemporary furniture. The rooms are very comfortable, light, spacious and it has a sitting room overlooking the courtyard and a fantastic roof terrace with pleasant places to relax surrounded by beautiful bougainvillea. Dar Chelita is situated next to the Katoubia mosque and the Djemaa el Fna square. And the 5* Hotel Jardin de Katoubia is just around the corner with a not to miss hammam and swimming pool http://www.lesjardinsdelakoutoubia.com/uk/navigation.htm

Although you should definitively stay for dinner and/or lunch in the riad (absolute treat and great value for money in a lovely ambiance) try to book a table at Le Foundouk and Bo Zin as well. Two great and totally different experiences, Le Foundouk http://www.foundouk.com has a traditional superb Morocan cuisine in the old part of the Medina; Bo Zin http://bo-zin.com is a stylish restaurant/club that is a 15 min drive from the Medina that will give you a great insight in the cosmopolitan nightlife. 

And last but not least do not forget to add some products of Les Sens de Marrakech to your shopping list of must have souvenirs. The products are great, not cheap but worth it, lovely smell, based on Argan oil and beautifully packed: http://www.lessensdemarrakech.com/

Portugal, Alcacer do Sal, Casas do Sal

The award for creative interpretation of a chocolate on our pillow goes to Casas do Sal. We viewed the movie Chocolat beamed on the swimming pool wall under a sky full of stars with our feet in the water laying in big comfortable lounging coushions while sipping our wine....

How about that?

http://www.casasdosal.pt

Casas do Sal is a family owned 2000-hectare estate situated 100km South of Lisbon idyllically hidden in the remote country side of Alenjeto and a half hour drive away from one of the most beautiful Atlantic beaches. The traditional white / cobalt blue colored cottages house 8 spacious rooms and apartments. Everywhere there is a laid back, bohemian and colorful vibe. Turismo rural as Sara and Joao (the vibrant and life enjoying owners) call it. I would describe it as hammocks and horses, caipirinha's and cork oaks, bikini's and bird watching. Click on the following link to get a good impression: http://www.wonderfulland.com/wonder2006/sleep/sal/indexhouse.htm#atmosphere

Casas do Sal is such a great discovery as it is a real 'no compromise' address when travelling with kids (we were there with a 2 yr old and a baby of 8 wks). Sara and Joao (who live in Lisbon as well) have three young kids of their own, so there is a natural child friendly atmosphere (and they have baby cots, baths, high chairs and even a off road easywalker we could use). There are some rules though that makes it nice for adults as well. In the cosey communal living area (with honesty bar) kids under 15 are not allowed by themselves. But Sara dedicated one apartment to be a playing room with TV and all the toys and entertainment you can think of. Very smart, and very convenient. Aside from this room, kids will love the enormous variety of animals all around (dogs, horses, chickens, birds, pigs, a parrot...) and the swimming pool is great for kids as well as it has a shallow end where they can play.

Massage in the garden, playing room, white & cobalt blue, horses

Things to do on the estate: chill at the pool or in the garden, explore the grounds by bike or feet and dive into the beautiful private lake (2 km away from the cottages), play tennis, book a massage (in the garden!), do some fishing or even hunting. If you are into golfing there are multiple options in the area. And you should also not miss: Badoca safari park (great for kids), Evora (lovely World Heritage town) and Comporta beach. One of the most beautiful and clean Atlantic beaches I have ever seen. 

http://www.comportacafe.com/

There are two beach clubs at Comporta: Ihla do Arroz and Comporta Cafe. Both stylish, relaxed, child friendly and an absolute reccomendation for a dinner on the beach.

Are there also remarks / things to know about Casas do Sal? Just a few:

1) Fly into Lisbon and rent a car.

2) The walls of Casa so Sal are very thick, so bring a baby phone/ walkie talkie with baby phone function with good reach.

3) The location is remote and your roomrate includes bed & breakfast. There is a simple but good bar menu for lunch, but dinner is only served in the off season (before July 12 and after September 14) and will cost 30 eur pp for adults.

4) The apartments have a small kitchen (fridge, microwave, cooker, coffee machine) which is very convenient to prepare a small lunch or dinner for the kids but real cooking is not possible/ allowed.

We were in Casas do Sal in June, so we had dinner at the estate a few times, went to the beach and had dinner in Comporta Cafe and Ihla do Arroz and prepared a simple 'appetizers' meal ourselves several times with bread, salads, local cheeses, sausages, olives and a good bottle of wine. With the kids sound asleep, sitting on our terrace watching the sky turning all colors of red/ purple we enjoyed these kind of meals perhaps even the most...  

France, Poitou Charentes, Montbron, Chateau de Lavaud

When searching for a stopover address during our trip to the South of France, Montbron was unfortunately a bit too much of a detour... Therefore we did not stay there, but would love to do so in the future as it is a favorite of good friends. 

 http://www.chateau-de-lavaud.com

This beautiful chateau has an absolute charm factor. The location is great, it has a fantastic swimming pool, a park, a libary, a cinema room, but most importantly the hosts are just lovely. The owners, an American/ French couple, renovated the place and decorated the four bedrooms inspired by their 'previous lives' in other countries. Their love for the place and this part of France gives that extra joie de vivre to your stay, they will welcome you as friend and organize amazing dinners.

That sounds like chocolateonyourpillow!